Henna Tattoos: The Dark Side

By Steele Smith

You want to get a henna tattoo? Well, there's nothing dangerous about that. After all, henna is an ancient organic dye that is completely non-toxic when applied to the skin and has been in use for more than 5,000 years. So what's all the fuss about toxic tattoos?

Unfortunately the recent popularity of henna tattoos has pushed some artists into using a dangerous chemical called Paraphenylediamine in order to distinguish themselves from their competitors. This chemical, mercifully known as PPD makes a significantly darker tattoo than Henna. This dangerous concoction is typically marketed as "black henna."

PPD is jet black and looks more like a real tattoo. In fact that's why many people choose it. To the uninitiated PPD seems to be a more striking version of henna. It isn't.

PPD tattoos have begun showing up at the UCLA Department of Dermatology lately because of what PPD can do to some people's skin. In some cases it can cause severe burns that literally eat through the skin. This typically begins with a scaling of the skin underneath the tattoo and is accompanied by a severe itch. As the reaction continues pustules form, begin to ooze and the entire area underneath the tattoo swells. As the swelling continues the area can ulcerate and this can cause permanent scaring.

Natural henna by contrast is a much more subtle color. As a paste it is a rich brown with a slightly greenish tinge. The tattoo itself is a tea colored brown with burnt orange overtones.

Henna originated in India and the Middle East as both a cooling agent and as a form of personal decoration used for wedding ceremonies. The art of applying the henna paste and creating the design is called mehndi.

Often times in Indian culture a bride and groom met each other only hours before their wedding. Traditionally the bride-to-be had her hands and feet decorated with elaborate designs created by the paste of crushed henna plants. The groom's name would be hidden within the complex designs worn by his future wife, and upon their meeting he was obligated to find it.

This wasn't entirely fun and games because it was considered a bad omen for the union if he failed, but this game of hide-and-seek did allow both parties to become comfortable with each other in the hours before their wedding. After the wedding the newly wed wife was encouraged not to engage in work until the tattoo faded, usually about two weeks.

Unfortunately PPD tattoos have a much less benign history and can become permanent scars that ironically may require a real tattoo to disguise them. In severe cases a person exposed to PPD can experience breathing difficulties and fall into anaphylactic shock, requiring emergency medical attention.

Unfortunately asking a henna artist whether they are using PPD is often not enough to avoid this scenario.

When you are considering getting a henna tattoo you should look very closely at the color. A good rule of thumb might be: "Dark greenish brown, sit down. Dark black, don't look back."

Also, recording the artist's name and permit number will give you some recourse in the event the artist is not working with pure henna. The city of Santa Monica only issues permits for pure henna tattoo work and allows no additives other than lemon juice, which is traditionally added to the paste to make it more acidic, and oil to help the henna's color penetrate the outer layers of skin.

In my experience as the Artists Liaison for the Bayside District Corporation and through my work on the Pier I've met many henna artists who would never use something that would put their customers' health at risk. The vast majority of henna artists are what I would call "henna purists." In fact I haven't seen any so-called "black henna" on them Promenade in more than a year. Regrettably I have encountered it more recently on the Pier.

Stay away from black and enjoy a henna tattoo that is safe and truly temporary.

Steele Smith is the Artists Liaison for the Bayside District Corporation